We’ve installed dozens of under-cabinet lighting systems, and trust us, it’s not as complicated as it seems. You’ll need to decide between puck lights, LED strips, or fluorescent fixtures before grabbing your tools. Most DIYers get stuck finding a suitable power source—usually from an outlet or existing switch. The trickiest part? Running those wires through cabinet bottoms without damaging your drywall. Once you’ve got everything connected, you’ll wonder why you didn’t tackle this project years ago.
Understanding Your Under-Cabinet Lighting Options
When it comes to under-cabinet lighting, we’ve got quite a few options to evaluate before grabbing our tools.
Understanding your under-cabinet lighting options really boils down to a few main categories.
You’ll find low-voltage xenon bulbs that outlast halogen, or basic fluorescent fixtures that won’t break the bank (though they typically can’t be dimmed).
LEDs are our personal favorite—either direct wire fixtures that need a 120V feed and can link together, or LED tape lighting with adhesive backing.
Placement matters too! Front mounting maximizes task lighting, while back placement reduces glare on shiny countertops.
Think ahead about cord visibility and future renovations.
Planning Your Kitchen Lighting Project
Now that we’ve covered the different types of under-cabinet lighting, how do we actually start planning our kitchen project?
First, assess your kitchen layout to determine ideal light placement—front, back, or middle positions often work best. We recommend testing different spots before installation to minimize glare.
Next, identify a viable power source. Remember, don’t connect to dedicated circuits, and calculate your wattage needs (stay under 1,440 watts for 15-amp circuits or 1,920 watts for 20-amp circuits).
Consider future renovations too. If you’re planning to tile later, factor this into your lighting placement to avoid aesthetic issues down the road.
Gathering Tools and Materials
Three essential steps separate successful DIY installations from frustrating weekend projects, and gathering the right tools is definitely the first one.
When it comes to under-cabinet lighting, you’ll need a trusty non-contact voltage tester (never skip this!), hacksaw, drill, and fish tape for cable pulling.
Don’t forget your materials—flexible steel conduit, a junction box, wire connectors, and of course, the lighting fixtures themselves.
Grab the proper electrical cable (12/2 or 14/2, depending on your circuit) and some cable clamps.
Oh, and safety gear! We always wear gloves and goggles—your eyes will thank you later.
Finding a Power Source
With your tools and materials ready, the real challenge begins: finding a suitable power source for your under-cabinet lights.
We’ll need to identify potential power sources like light switch boxes or junction boxes nearby.
Before connecting anything, we must verify the circuit capacity. Remember, 15-amp circuits can handle up to 1,440 watts, while 20-amp circuits support 1,920 watts.
Don’t overload them!
To locate the right circuit, turn off breakers one by one until your test device shuts off.
Once found, use a voltage tester to confirm all wires are dead.
Then, drill a 1/2-inch hole in the cabinet back to route your wiring safely.
Preparing Cabinet and Wall Spaces
Proper preparation of your cabinet and wall spaces is absolutely essential before running any wiring.
We’ll start by drilling starter holes and cutting a shallow 12-inch access hole in the back of your cabinets—being careful not to nick existing wires.
Always follow manufacturers’ instructions for specific mounting requirements.
Before mounting anything, we need to mark the switch box profile on your backsplash and pre-drill holes.
Remember to leave extra cable length, especially for vertical runs to fixtures—trust me, you’ll thank yourself later when making connections!
Always test with a non-contact voltage tester before touching any wires.
Safety first, beautiful lighting second!
Running Wires and Installing Junction Boxes
Now comes the exciting part of our project—installing the actual wiring that’ll power your new under-cabinet lighting.
First, drill that shallow 12-inch access hole in the cabinet back, being super careful not to nick any existing wires. Next, we’ll attach flex connectors to a junction box and secure it to the cabinet’s back.
For the wiring runs, drill 1-1/8 inch holes through cabinet sides, then feed the flex conduit from junction box to your light fixtures.
Remember, when you install under cabinet lighting, proper connections are essential—black to black, white to white, ground to ground.
Double-check that you’re not exceeding 1,440 watts for 15-amp circuits!
Mounting Fixtures and Connecting Wires
Once you’ve got your wiring properly run through the cabinets, it’s time to actually mount those fixtures where they’ll do the most good.
We need to secure each fixture to the cabinet bottom using screws, making sure the cable is properly fastened with a clamp. This prevents wear and keeps everything stable.
Connect the wires according to your fixture’s instructions—black to black, white to white, ground to ground. It’s pretty straightforward, but double-check the color coding.
Don’t forget to tidy up by stapling any excess cable.
For your switch, mark and drill carefully before mounting that remodeling box in the backsplash.
Installing Switches and Dimmers
With the fixtures firmly mounted and wired, let’s get those switches and dimmers set up. It’s time to install these controls to make your under-cabinet lighting truly functional.
First, power off at the circuit box—safety first!
Then mark the switch profile on your backsplash and drill holes for cable access before mounting the remodeling box.
Connect according to manufacturer’s instructions, matching black to black, white to white, and don’t forget the ground wire.
Sometimes these connections can be a bit fiddly, but take your time.
Finally, fold those wires neatly into the box, secure everything, and attach the cover plate.
Testing and Troubleshooting Your New Lighting
The true test of all your hard work finally arrives when you’re ready to power up those newly installed under-cabinet lights. Before flipping that switch, we need to verify everything’s properly connected.
| Troubleshooting Issue | Common Cause | Testing Method | Solution |
|---|---|---|---|
| No power | Tripped breaker | Voltage tester | Reset breaker |
| Flickering | Loose connections | Visual inspection | Secure wires |
| Dim sections | Voltage drop | Multimeter | Add power injector |
| Uneven LED tape lighting | Poor adhesion | Physical check | Reapply/secure strip |
If your lights don’t illuminate, don’t panic! First check your breaker box, then inspect those connections. LED tape lighting can be tricky, but most issues have simple fixes.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I Install Under Cabinet Lighting Myself?
Yes, we can tackle DIY installation of under-cabinet lighting ourselves, especially with plug-in options. If you’re comfortable with basic electrical work, it’s definitely achievable, though prioritize safety throughout the process.
Do You Need an Electrician to Install Under Cabinet Lighting?
We recommend electricians for hardwired lighting types, but we don’t need them for simple plug-in fixtures. Your comfort with electrical work and the lighting types you choose determine your need for professional help.
How Do You Hide Wires for Under Cabinet Lights?
We hide under cabinet lighting wires by using flexible steel conduit, drilling access holes in cabinets, tucking fixtures behind lips, running wiring along cabinet backs, or using adhesive-backed LED tape for effective wire concealment.
Should Under Cabinet Lighting Be Hardwired?
We recommend hardwiring for cleaner looks, greater control, and better safety compliance. It’s the superior wiring option for most kitchens, though plug-in alternatives exist for renters or simpler installations.
